View 1946 Cabin Plans Here.

Original Publishing: 1939 • Second Printing: 1946 • Woodbeck Publishing Company (Grand Rapids, Michigan)

You Will Agree…

That we are all different, not only in our desires and ambitions, but in our ability to secure that which we want and that for which we can afford to pay. From the earliest American Settlement to the present city, suburban or other terrain, we all seem to want a cabin, cottage or other type of structure away from where we normally make our residence. “Cabin Plan Book” (1946 Woodbeck Cabin House Plans) has been assembled with a view to giving numerous ideas on just what the title denotes. In the average American mind a cabin may be a true log cabin, a wood clap-board shack, or the type of homes, and homes they are, that are shown in the following pages.

Location

Careful planning is the important feature in handling an enterprise of this nature. For years, innumerable cabins and cottages have been built that were to be the dream houses of the occupants. Unfortunately, no intelligent planning or other considerations were looked into prior to selecting the site, or deciding upon the materials from which the house was to be constructed. A lake, mountain, or sea-shore location may appeal to one type of person and be entirely unsatisfactory to another. This is a matter for your own selection and judgment. BUT before choosing a lot, wherever it may be, consider the following suggestions if they apply to the site you have in mind. If you had hoped for a definite ideal setting it should be tempered with good judgment. If you choose a lake front or sea-shore site, ascertain the high water mark during the spring storms and place your foundation sufficiently back to be away from danger. Also, if building along sandy beaches, inspect carefully the possibility of the front yard being washed away when high water prevails. In an area surrounded by woods, there is always danger of forest fires, and while a suitable clearing will undoubtedly be made around your cabin home in the woods, check the prevailing winds and do not build on a site that cannot be defended by fire trails. A final consideration in locating one’s cabin is the view. This again is a personal matter. Some people like to look out into the woods while others much prefer the view of a lake or running stream. Situate your cabin so that your view will not be obstructed by poles if high power or telephone lines are brought in. If a garage is required, its location and relation to the dwelling should be settled on.

Plans

Normally speaking, many cabins and cottages are erected without the benefit of architectural design of any nature. This is not the best procedure to follow, and unfortunately some people are of the opinion that a floor layout plan is all that is needed in order to proceed with construction. While floor plans are very necessary in laying out the size and arrangement of rooms, they are inadequate as a guide to the individual building his own log cabin or to the builder to whom he assigns the job. It is impossible to estimate the quantity and type of materials needed without elevations. If the prospective cabin builder is unable to prepare a set of plans, he would be wise to consult an Architect. For complete construction details write (to) us. From your rough sketches we will prepare scale drawings, material lists and suggestions for building methods.

Sewage

Proper sewage is of great importance principally because of its relation to the water supply. The septic tank, cesspool, or outdoor toilet should be placed in such a position that the drainage will run in an opposite direction and to a lower level from that at which you secure your water. Where modern conveniences are installed, cast iron soil pipe should be placed with a grade of at least one-fourth inch per foot. The main line to the septic tank or cesspool should be at least 4 inches in diameter, as well as the lines from the toilets. The diameters of the connections from the washbasin, showers and sink, way be of brass, should be in accordance with the recommendations of the manufacturers of the equipment.

Plumbing

Copper pipe that will last a lifetime and is easy to install is highly recommended for cabin plumbing. Normally the cabin water supply does not carry too much pressure or volume and where a three-quarter-inch pipe would be sufficient for a city residence, it is much better to use at least a 1-inch pipe. In the colder sections of the country water pipes freeze if not insulated. If the cabin has a wooden floor, the water pipes may be insulated by placing them under the floor. To further insure against frozen pipes, water lines and tanks should be so arranged that they can be drained and a shut-off valve should be located near the water supply. If hot water is to be a part of your plan for comfort, these pipes also should be fitted with the necessary shut-off and drain arrangement.

As an added precaution, it is always advisable to have an outside faucet at the front and rear of your cabin so that if an emergency you need water for fire fighting, it is available.

Bathroom

Even in a cabin home in the remote backwoods the luxury of a modern bathroom is a “must”. The number of bathrooms in your cabin will vary with its size and your proposed financial expenditure. Normally speaking, the average two-bedroom cabin is sufficiently served by one bathroom. Larger, more elaborate summer homes will require additional facilities.

Silent toilets in small cabins save considerable embarrassment due to close living. The problem of (a) bathtub or shower stall may be somewhat simplified by installing a bathtub with shower over it, but this again is a question of personal preference.

It is always desirable, if possible, to have a window in the bathroom, not only for general daytime light, but for ventilation in the summertime as well. It is also advisable, depending on your location, to check the size of the window in your bathroom as a small window set high in the wall gives greater privacy.

Outdoor “Conveniences”

Due to circumstances rather than choice, the old-fashioned backhouse or privy is still used extensively. If the outdoor toilet is properly constructed, it is entirely satisfactory. The pit must be deep, not less than 5 feet and preferably 6 feet. The inside unit should be properly boxed, cracks should b e avoided in the lumber and the joints should be covered with battens. In other words, it must be fly-proof. This also includes the seat cover, which should be so hung that when not in use it will automatically drop. While in foul weather a long trek is not particularly pleasant to contemplate, the toilet should be at least 75 feet from the cabin, and preferably 125 distant. The outdoor toilet can be constructed along modern lines, finished and painted, so as to fit in with surrounding architecture and color scheme. Thick shrubbery or vines may be used to enclose it.

Log Cabins

Many individuals talk about the desire to build “An Old Fashioned log Cabin.” In actual practice an uncaulked pioneer log cabin without modern conveniences is most unwelcome. Log cabins do not follow any definite pattern, but unquestionably are all constructed more or less as those used by the early pioneers in this country. With this in mind, they should follow the traditional trend such as heavy logs, rough finish, often with only one large room but in the case of ‘we’ moderns, sanitary conveniences should be included. Log cabin design typical of the earlier days roughly covers the following:

1. Shingle or shake roofs that are low and with not too high a pitch.
2. Wide windows set high, containing small panes.
3. Rough, but not sloppy axe work to keep in the general trend.
4. Hardware of wrought iron or in keeping with the rest of the cabin.
5. Natural stone fireplaces and brick hearths.

Logs and Log Treatment

The sills and all wooden members below the floor line should be treated with some good standard termite preventative. The additional time and effort in taking this precaution will more than pay the cabin owner over a period of a few years. Consult your local supply house and procure any good standard brand.

Many people like to leave the bark on their logs. Just a suggestion: Bark has a habit of hiding insects and they are an untold source of trouble as well as a continual nuisance. A draw shave, or hand stripping is an easy way to remove the bark. It is not difficult, and will give you clean logs that may be treated with the termite solution before mentioned. Green logs should be piled far enough apart and staggered so as to allow a free flow of air for drying. Green logs require approximately four months of air drying before they may be used with complete satisfaction.

In passing, we (would) like to offer a few suggestions in your choice of logs. Soft woods rather than hardwoods will be found much easier to work (with). Pine, bass and hemlock work up easily into logs. Oak logs, even though thoroughly dried and fitted into place, have a habit of changing form a year or two after the cabin is completed. Oak will twist and pull your entire cabin out of line.

Costs

During the past few years the subject of costs has been difficult to ascertain in advance. Since late 1939, due to rising material and labor expenses, an estimate in the Spring would be out of line in a few months. In the opinion of many, building costs are following a slowly rising pattern, however, hundreds of successful cabins and cottages have been constructed by their owners with the use of local help. In this instance greater supervision of the building must be exercised, but the construction is relatively cheaper.

Just because logs grow on trees, many (people) believe that a log cabin is the most inexpensive type of building that can be built. Unfortunately this is not true, because logs are potential lumber. The individual or concern from whom you buy your logs makes you a price which varies in accordance with the amount he thinks he can get for his logs from a saw-mill owner. If you are fortunate enough to secure a piece of land covered with trees, from which you may secure your own logs, your problem of expense is correspondingly reduced.

In the early days when lumber was readily available the cost of log cabins may have been assumed to be less than conventional buildings similar in size but using finished lumber. This might continue to be true if it were not for the increased labor costs necessary to fashion rough timbers to the desired size and shape. In log cabin construction one runs into the slow and painstaking job of fitting the logs. It must be constantly kept in mind that it takes much longer to fit a log properly than it does to nail a board in place. It is difficult to give any definite figures as to the expense of fitting logs at this time, however, many concerns now supply direct from the mill, synthetic split logs and horizontal or vertical round logs that are grooved for easy construction.

Prefabricated cabins have become increasingly popular during the past years, and outstanding concerns such as the E. F. Hodgson Company of Boston, Massachusetts and New York City have, since 1900, supplied thousands of prefabricated cottages, cabins and homes, some costing as much as $12,000.00. In our opinion there is a definite advantage in availing (oneself) of prefabricated cabins and cottages. This by no means precludes the desirability of constructing a cottage in the normal manager and is again a matter left entirely to the judgment of the prospect owner.

We Do Not…

Attempt to plan your particular cabin, because your individual tastes, your special needs, and financial ability may differ greatly from those of other persons looking for ideas in this book. We suggest that you do not start up sixty miles an hour in securing either your lot or acreage, and that after this is acquired, you very slowly make up your mind as to what type of cabin or cottage you want. In the final analysis, it is better to spend a reasonable length of time over your plans rather than to rush into building an undesirable structure. A summer home should be of constant and increasing pleasure to the owner.